Thursday, March 25, 2004

 

Takeout adventures on 14th Street

LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis

East 14th Street, once a disaster area, has had a rebirth in the past decade. Drug-infested flophouses and shady street-level businesses have closed, thanks to community activists, concerned businesspeople, schools and institutions. The lawsuits and neighborhood improvement actions were spearheaded by the 14th Street-Union Square LDC/BID (now Union Square Partnership). The active neighborhood preservationist group is Union Square Community Coalition.

A hundred plus years ago 14th Street was the home of Luchow’s German Restaurant, rival of Delmonico’s, where Diamond Jim Brady entertained Lillian Russell and other ladies of the stage. He was the master salesman whose barbed wire turned the Wild West into a cattle pasture. Four decades ago, when our group of antiquarian book hunters met there for lunch before dispersing into the Book Row, my favorite was Luchow’s cream herring appetizer, ordered as a main course (Marvin Mondlin of the Strand, in his new Book Row volume - soon to be reviewed here - describes the Fourth Ave scene and the fascinating odd savants running the stores).

There was also the Academy of Music (most recently the Palladium), Steinway Hall and a slew of theatres for every taste, from vaudeville to opera. Movie houses abounded, the wreck of the last, Jefferson Theatre, was turned into an empty lot only a few years ago. The Academy and Luchow’s sites are now NYU dorms and Richards & Sons electronics emporium. Among more recent losses are Tad’s, the late lamented sizzling steak grill, across from the Zeckendorf Towers’ Food Emporium, and the street's only Philippine restaurant, at 325, Manila Garden, closed only a few years ago.

As for the bars on 14th Street, they are not for food. There is a range of styles, from the mod rock-and-roll playing Beauty Bar at 231 (with the original Thomas' Beauty Salon sign still hanging outside, and an interior walls decorated with metal hair dryers),Barmacy at 538 (with displays of the implements and wares of the old pharmacy which it replaced) and Kings Head Tavern at 220, to the old-timers, O'Hanlon's Bar at 349 and the Blarney Cove Bar at 510. In this context, Looking Forward offers its best birthday wishes to old friend Edward K. Kane, Esq., of East 22nd Street, aka Old Curmudgeon, who was once the area's foremost expert on bar life.

East 14th Street, from Fourth Ave to Alphabet City.

Amid the dorms, near Fourth Ave, is Amore Pizza, at 104 East 14th Street, (212) 420-8287. It also has also calzones, pastas and other Italian fare. Free delivery.

East of Third Ave, Red House, Chinese cuisine, at 203 East 14th Street (212) 228-8288 has a huge menu, all items under $10. Happy Family is a dish that mixes crab, lobster, chicken, beef and pork. Mei fun (deep-fried), ho fun (fried flat noodle), vegetable and weight watcher dishes abound. Free delivery.

The Original New 211 Taco Grill at 211 East 14th Street (212) 353-3728 has a tortilla machine, offers fajitas singly or by the pound,, hard and soft shell tacos, cheese quesadillas (tortilla sandwich), burritos and Mexican pizza. Free delivery.

Daphne's Caribbean Express, at 233 East 14th Street (212)228-6144, is the plain cousin of Daphne Mahoney's luxurious Bamboo restaurant at 243 (212) 358-0012. The latter, featuring a Jamaican ambiance, is known for its pure lump crabcakes, and shrimp and red snapper in coconut sauce, serve to guests seated on couches amid tropical greenery. No takeout . Daphne’s offers a less upscale full Caribbean fare, with jerk chicken and fish and the sharp Jamaican ginger beer, takeout, free delivery.Anna Maria Pizza & Pasta, at 238 East 14th Street (212) 505-0979 offersclassic Italian cuisine, pollo or vitello sautéed a la Parmigiana, Marsala,Saltimbocca (sage, spinach & prosciutto), Scarpariello (lemon garlic sauce),Capricciosa (pan-fried), and Francese (egg batter). Free delivery. Dizzy Izzy’s New York Bagels at 250 East 14th Street (212) 614-9515 also has hot sandwiches, classic burgers, bagel breakfasts, omeletes, wraps and salads. Free delivery.

Fresh Tortilla, Tex-Mex kitchen at 328 East 14th Street (212) 420-1755,features tacos, priced from $.99 up, and the usual varieties. Free delivery.
Rainbow Pizza Café at 347 East 14th Street, between 1st and 2nd Aves, (212) 529-3067 offers grilled chicken with pita or as dinner , also kebabs, couscous, calamari, gyro, falafel and more Mediterranean delights. Free delivery.

Shing Lung Chinese Kitchen at 424 East 14th Street near Ave A (212) 979-2603 has a huge illustrated partly bilingual menu. Many items are available by pint or quart. Free delivery.

J & J Coffee Shop at 442A East 14th, (212) 475-7682, open 24 hrs exceptMondays 'till 8 pm, has burgers and sandwiches, Greek and Italianspecialties, salads, chicken, pastrami, meatloaf and salads, waist-watcherdishes and fountain splurges. Late breakfasts, free delivery.

Pete’s-A-Place, pizzeria and restaurant at 502 East 14th Street (212) 473-0671 offers also pastas, heros, calzones and buffalo chicken wings. Free delivery.

Our Kitchen, catering and takeout service at 520 East 14th Street (212) 677-8018, featuring exotic Singapore Pan-Asian cuisine, is proud of its favorable media reviews. Cilantro soups, tofu dishes (General Tao’s tofu and broccoli), sesame veggie-chicken. Free delivery.

Wednesday, March 17, 2004

 

More takeout menus, mostly upscale, for Park Ave South

LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis

We need more lean and nutritionally sound cuisine!

The couch-potato Americans are too fat, particularly kids, from lack of mobility while watching sports on TV and sitting at the computer. Obesity is in the process of overtaking tobacco as the No. One killer of Americans. The downward shift in median US income also prompts the purchases of cheaper food varieties. You can have noodles and cheese for 25 cents, but vegetables are expensive. Bad idea to economize there.

There is too much fat and nutritionally lacking fast-food in our lives, since two-income families have no time to cook. The chain eateries pay heed, but mostly in words. The MacDonalds and Burger Kings recognize the dangers and try lean menus, but they are not popular. Wendy’s has better success, with its neat 99-cent item menu, particularly a baked potato, house salad and chili combination.

Takeout facilities at restaurants above the fast-food scale enable the consumer with adequate means to make more varied and nutritionally sound selections. Nutritionally sound meals also available in the beloved ethnic eateries, the contents buried in the exotic names. It is particularly laudable to see restaurants featuring a special leaner cuisine. It is not inappropriate for you the customer to prompt the restaurant owner towards adding lean and nutritionally balanced items to the menu. Do not accept any Atkins trickery to explain the buttery sauces and dressings.

This article describes Park Avenue South restaurants that provide some takeout service, delivered or pickup, or permit doggie-bagging your leftovers. .Many of the restaurants on PAS and West of it use Dial-A-Diner service, (212) 643-1222. You order through D-A-D, with a charge of 20% over the dinner price, delivered in 60-90 minutes by a tuxedoed staff member.

Park Avenue South, 14th to 23rd Streets (including Union Square East)


Zen Palate Gourmet Shop at 34 East Union Square, corner 16th Street (212) serves your vegetarian desires with vegi-burgers and ham, pasta dishes, sweet & sour delight, curried soy with potatoes, stir-fried rice fettuccini, moo shu Mexican style. Free delivery.

Candela at 116 East 16th Street (212)254-1600, an example of the New American Cuisine fusion approach, offers Italian pasta dishes alongside a Asian barbeque pork chops, miso glazed tuna and a sushi menu. Free delivery

Todd English’s Olives at 201 PAS, in the W Union Square Hotel, (212) 353-8345 has no regular takeout service.

Evergreen Restaurant at 213 PAS (212) 460-0910 at the site of the famous Max’s Kansas City Restaurant (1966-82), serves super bagels, sandwiches and a deli menu. Free delivery.

Park Avalon at 225 PAS (212) 533-2500 offers spicy calamari and antipasto, Caesar salads, wasabi tuna king Salomon, Chilean sea bass, Flatiron steak, grilled filet mignon, pasta and pizzas. Entrees around $20. You pick up your order.

Angelo and Maxie’s Steakhouse, 233 PAS at 19th Street (212), D-a-D. Restaurant phone (212) 220-9200. Clams for appetizer, 24-oz charbroiled T-bone steaks, 20-oz veal chops, 10-oz burgers, Maine lobsters, also smaller servings. Up to a mid $20 range.

City Crab & Seafood Co, 235 PAS delivery available only by calling through D-A-D. Chowders, crab soup and Louisiana gumbo, calamari,, oysters and clams by the half-dozen or in combos, crabcakes, claws, lobsters with and without steak.

Chango modern Mexican cuisine, at 239 PAS (212) 477-1500, fiesta to go available for lunch and dinner includes not only the usual suspects but also wild striped bas wrapped in a tortilla, chili spiked filet mignon and shrimp enchilada. Free delivery.

Mori Japanese cuisine at 239 PAS (212) 614-1693 has appetizers and dinners from the sushi bar as well as entrees of spiced and teriyaki chicken, salmon and shrimp. Free delivery.

Sushi Samba , 245 PAS (212) 475-9377, has .no takeout, doggie bags no problem.

L’Express, 24 hour bouchon (open), 249 PAS, (212) 254-5858 has croissants, croque monsieur and pain au chocolat for breakfast, omelets till 4 PM, blood sausage, escargots and beef Bourguignon and other specialitees Lyonnaise for dinner. Livraison gratis.

Bravo Pizza at 257 PAS (212) 253 6090.Many varieties, create your own salad, heros, calzones pasta primavera, eggplant parmigiana. Free delivery.

Cosi at 21st Street and PAS (212) 598-4070, for free delivery call (212)949-7400, sandwiches, salads and soups, pastries and morning bagels. Min. order $10.

Emma’s Dilemma, deli café at 270 PAS (20-21 Sts), open 24 hours (212)777-0222 offers breakfast, Boar’s Head deli sandwiches, hot and cold, lunch sandwiches, salads and wraps, pizzas and pies, hot buffet and platters, fresh sushi bar. Grocery items and fruit, order by phone, free delivery.



Thursday, March 11, 2004

 
Takeout food continued - 23rd Street, east of PAS

Takeout restaurants in business areas are flourishing because more New Yorkers take their lunches back to the offices, to eat at their desks. This also explains the paradox of increasing productivity in the US without growth of jobs. Fearful of losing employment, Americans contribute unpaid work time. Employers exploit this, producing stellar financial statements and booming stock prices. Meanwhile, barely a dent is made by the administration in restoring the 2.9 million lost jobs. Gregory Mankiw, Chairman of White House Council of Economic Advisors, cannot explain the drop of new employment in a period of growing GDP, from 97,000 new jobs in January to 21,000 in February, but I can, watching the stagnated Job Market section in the Sunday NYTimes, bouncing in the pitiful range of 12 to 18 pages. Add to this the growth of outsourcing , since competition forces more and more employers to offshore. Most recently, making a Delta Airlines reservation, I heard a strange but pleasant accent, and taking a guess, asked Joyce da Pool – that’s how the reservationist identified herself – about the weather in Bangalore. She was surprised, and so was I, that my shot in the dark had hit the mark. Next day, picking up the electronic ticket, I was talking to a very businesslike person in Poona, near Bombay (officially Mumbai), who discovered and fixed a spelling difference in my frequent flyer record that had existed for decades. No wonder we are losing.

A spam from Lou Dobbs, the financial analyst of CNN who has been railing against losses of good American jobs to offshoring, and not only in information technology. A $90,000 financial analyst can now be replaced with a $20,000 one in India . He is promising astounding growth in stock market values due to President Bush’s policies, particularly in this, his election year. Dobbs is probably right, the tax and procurement policies favoring the wealthy and offering special benefits to large businesses can be expected to intensify. There is no favoritism, of course, and business people taking unfair advantage will be punished; the Department of Justice can now wave a bloody scalp, that of Martha Stewart, as proof.

But let’s get back to business area takeout restaurants. Near PAS, 23rd Street takeout shops service local area clerical people and Baruch students, and are very busy at lunch time. The more substantial diners are strong in the residential area east of Third Avenue.

23RD STREET, east of Park Avenue South

The brand new Yoshinoya Restaurant at 110 East 23rd Street, near PAS, (212) 674-1187 offers a short takeout specials menu of combo, beef and teriyaki chicken bowls, under $5.

Across the street, Golden Krust, Caribbean bakery and grill, 111 East 23rds Street, (212) 674-4660, is a chain operation featuring grilled jerk chicken, Jamaican patties in 8 varieties, curry dishes, many in mini, small and large sizes. Callaloo and ackie fish breakfast, with yams and boild bananas. Free delivery.

Anna Maria Classic Italian cuisine, pizza & pasta , 112 East 23rd Street, (212) 777-3200 offers also salad, veal, chicken and fish entrees. Grill specials and sandwiches available. Free delivery.

Mark Café, 125 East 23rd Street (212) 533-6947has hot and cold salads, gyro and other sandwiches, twelve varieties of burgers, souvlaki on pita and platters. Free delivery.

Grand Saloon, fine food and drink since 1880, was also a class brothel at that time, turning into Klube’s Steak House in 1911, then a speakeasy and subsequently a college hangout. Soups, salads, appetizers, sandwiches and huge burgers, major cuts of steaks and pork chops, salmon dishes. Free delivery.

Past the school environment, as 23rd Street turns residential, we find Asian Express, a Chinese and Japanese restaurant at 234 East 23rd Street (212) 481-2225. Chinatown style noodle soups, moo shu shrimps in pancakes, also classy Paking (stet) ducks rub shoulders sushi and sashimi, lunch bento boxes, teriyaki and donburi entrees. Free delivery.

New York City Bagels, 310 East 23rd Street (212) 533-7577 has a full diner menu. Lox and feta omelets, smoked fish and herring appetizing, blintzes with sour cream, Yonah Schimmel knishes , Melted and BLT (with turkey bacon) sandwiches, grilled meat or vegetable burgers, turkey pastrami. Free delivery in Manhattan.

A Corbet & Conley Caterers emporium, 333 East 23rd Street, (212) 532-9119, offers bagels and burritos, sandwiches, wraps, soups and specials. Design your own salad. Free delivery.

Pastrami and Things, Delicatessen Restaurant, 333 East 23rd Street (212) 689-8090, has classic salads, chef’s, Caesar, and Greek, wraps, deli sandwiches, hot sandwiches with mashed, corned beef of pastrami omeletes, potato pancakes, blintzes, Roumanian tenderloin steak, pierogi, for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Free delivery.

East Side Café, 352 East 23rd Street (212) 533-2034, offers regular and low cholesterol omelets , pancakes and eggs any style, Belgian waffles, bagel & lox breakfasts. For dinner, souvlaki with spaghetti, veal Parmigian, and a broiled and fried seafood menu. Free delivery.

A combined Chinese and Japanese restaurant, at 399 23rd Street, Hunan Lake (212) 679-5689 and Sushi King (212) 679-9816. $26 Peking roast duck tops the menu at the former, mostly Cantonese eatery. Tempura, age mono and nabe moki dishes and maki/temaki rolls supplement Sushi King’s specialties. Fast free delivery offered.


Thursday, March 04, 2004

 

Local take-out - First Avenue

LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis

Local take-out food – First Avenue

In the interests of providing a most complete takeout food experience for the ST/PCV shopping area, this list of First Avenue restaurants and takeout shops has been expanded South, to 13th Street. You may want to clip this list for reference, it is quite complete. Fourteenth Street, 23rd Street and their outlets to the great avenues will be covered later. For the food lovers who would like to include more of the outlying culinary outposts of local and national prominence, such as the Second Avenue Deli and Veniero’s, and the grand names that make Union Square the “best tasting community,” they too will shine here, in time. Patience and fortitude, to quote the greatest Mayor of NYC, past tense. Now, on with the job, and, please, no quibbling over the language, ethnic food people have their own spelling rules.

FIRST AVENUE, 13th to 23rd Streets


The Original Mee Noodle Shop and Grill, 219 First Ave at 13th Street (212) 995-0333. Praised by Eric Asimov in NYT, 1994, for the delicacy of its noodles, it offers seven kinds, plus other Cantonese classics, intermingled with a number of Szechuan and Hunan specials, including sautéed seafood. Free delivery, accept only AmEx credit cards.

Rancho El Girasol Restaurant and Bar, 221 First Ave (212) 375-0501 offers tortas, enchiladas (rolled tortillas filled with savory stuff, e.g. chile) with beans (frijole) and guacamole, quesadillas (folded tortillas filled with refried beans, cooked meat, cheese), tacos (usually crisp folded tortilla filled with savory etc. etc.) and a long list of entrees. Free delivery.

Ikura Japanese Restaurant 222 First Ave (212) 529-8500. “Sushi half price served seven days a week.” Lunch and dinner specials. Bento (box lunch), don buri (in porcelain bowl). Free delivery.

Blue Velvet Vietnamese Cuisine, 227 First Ave (212) 260-9807. Banh cuon (ravioli), bo bia (summer roll) salads, peanut sauce. Chicken udon (noodle) soup, pork, chicken, salmon, sautéed Buddhist chicken noodle and rice dishes, special menu of over $10 items. Free delivery.

A Halal restaurant, Big Arc Chicken, 233 First Ave (212) 477-0091. Grilled chicken and fish, Middle Eastern specialties, vegetarian platters, baba ganouj & hommas, foul mudammas (fava beans), kebabs and falafel. Free delivery. Halal is the Islamic equal of Kosher. It forbids the eating of pork, carnivorous animals, animals without external ears, blood and its products, use of alcohol and intoxicants, and defines improper slaughter.

Crossing 14th Street, Durbar East, 239 First Ave, (212) 677-0005, one of the few Indian restaurants between the East 6th Street and Lexington Ave high Twenties clusters. Tandoori (clay oven) chicken & shrimp, vegetarian saag paneer, basmati rice, curry. Free delivery.

Far East Chinese and Japanese Restaurant, 259 First Ave, (212) 598-0180. Two separate huge menus, all you desire, small & large portions separately priced. Free delivery.

Johnny’s Pizza, 261 First Ave (212) 254-6649. Also pasta, heros, everything Parmigiana, stromboli & calzones., buckets of Buffalo wings. Free delivery.

No. 1 Chinese Restaurant, 265 First Ave (212) 529-0539. Cantonese noodle soup, eight page menu, priced by pint and quart, chef’s specials. Lunch, free delivery.

The two glatt Kosher restaurants of the entire area live side by side, fleishige and milchige. Murray’s Falafel and Grill, 261 First Ave (212)533-1956 has Israeli TV playing, by satellite, kabobs, Moroccan cigars (spicy beef), shwarma (giro) and Shabbat family take-out.

The other is La Bagel Dairy Restaurant, 263 First Ave (212) 388-9292. Bagels, bialys, rolls, spreads, appetizing, platters, salads – and pizza. Will cater, deliver. .

Coopertown Diner, 339 First Ave at 19th Street (212) 677-7811. Big breakfast, griddle cakes, Belgian waffles. Steaks for dinner, salad platters, diet dishes. Delivered.

The New Ambrosia Diner – Restaurant, 273 First Ave (212) 473-7440. Greek and Mediterranean specialties, waffles, muffins and bagels, 6-oz beefburgers, pasta, Roumanian steaks, stuffed sole. Free delivery.

Adriatic Italian Restaurant, Family Style, 321 First Ave, (212) 260-2797. Mussels marinara, pasta, chicken, veal and fish entrees served with salad or pasta. Twenty pizza specialties, heros, free delivery.

David Bagels, 331 First Ave (2121) 780-2308. Deli, restaurant, appetizer. Walnut cream cheese, maple honey turkey, chopped herring and lox sandwiches, free delivery.

Tony’s House of Pizza, 347 First Ave at 20th Street, (212) 598-4545. Heros, 16 and 18-inch pizzas, appetizer, soups and salads, pasta, calzones. Free delivery

Ess-a-Bagel, 359 First Ave, (212) 260-2252. Nationally acclaimed , hand-rolled, 14 varieties, also rugulach. Salad sandwiches, smoked fish platters. Delivered.

North of this point we are in hospital country. More to come.

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