Thursday, October 09, 2003

 
LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis
Harvest in the Square celebration a success
New American Cuisine, the fusion of ethnic foods in all possible permutations, was the key phrase heard about the fares presented by nearly 70 local restaurants, who, with their wine merchant companions, feasted us in the Big Tent, at the 8th annual Harvest in the Square celebration. It took place on Union Square on Thursday, October 2, 2003, under the sponsorship of the 14th Street-Union Square LDC/BID. Although it was deferred two weeks by the threat of Hurricane Isabel, New Yorkers did not let the postponement and the unseasonably cool weather interfere with their cheerful enjoyment of what some have termed the greatest and best food and wine tasting event of this city. They were not timid with their praise, cheerfully rating the taste delights and disputing each other’s choices. Two big favorites were the Coffee Shop’s Lobster Tamales, with Heirloom Tomatoes, Salsa and Crème Fraiche, served on a corn leaf, and City Bakery’s Dark Chocolate Cheesecake, followed by Fleur de Sel’s Goat Cheese Ravioli with American Sturgeon Caviar, Blue Smoke’s Chocolate Peanut Butter Parfait (to die for, I’m told), Wild Salmon Duo from Blue Water Grill, a Watermelon and Feta Cheese creation from Gramercy Tavern, Olive’s Crispy Lamb Spare Ribs, Noodle Salad with Fried Wontons from Republic, StripHouse’s New York Strip Steak, and Murgh Lazeez Minced Chicken with Basmati Rice from Tamarind.
People also raved about Angelo and Maxie’s Sliced Filet Mignon, Thai Red Curry Broth with Seafood Cilantro Salad from AZ, Black Duck’s Torcho of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Chango’s Shrimp Ceviche, Duck Carnitas & Tamale Pops from Dos Caminos, the creamy Savory Corn Panna Cotta of Eleven Madison Park, Chilled Corn Soup with Poached Shrimp from Kitchen 22, Short Ribs Beef Bourguignon from L’Express, National Art Club’s Chili, Park Avalon’s Penne with Heirloom Tomatoes, the Rugelach from 71 Irving Place, Sushi Samba’s Tuna Tartare Seviche, the soft Mung Bean Hummus on a hard crouton from Tabla, Union Square Ballroom’s Shark Sandwich, and Cantaloupe Popsicles at Wichcraft.
The festivities started with the arrivals receiving flutes of Italian brut, Ameri Prosecco, at the entrance, and hors d’oeuvres of Chili Verde, Quesadillas (dumplings) and Flautas (chicken) from Flaco’s & Tequila, Yucca Frita Chimichuri, Maduros (plantains) and Chorizos (sausage) from Habana Central, grilled T-Bones, Cod Cakes and Gazpacho Shooters from Knickerbocker Bar and Grill, Octopus Cocktails, Tostadas of Duck Confit Escabeche (marinade) and Guacamole from Lucy, a new girl on the block. The vegetarians among us had a choice of Butternut Squash & Mushroom Salad with Truffle (essence only, to be sure) from Arezzo, Almond Crusted Brie Puffs from Belmont Lounge, an admired Seven Bean Salad from Beppe, Fig, Goat Cheese and Pumpernickel Terrine from Candela., Galaxy Global’s Hempnut Crusted Edamame (soybean) Cakes, Red and Yellow Gazpacho featured by Greenmarket Farmers Market, while Tocqueville proclaimed tomato supremacy.
For seafood lovers there were Steamed Mussels from Aleo, intriguingly named White Anchovies & Marinated Zucchini Vinaigrette from Amuse , Grilled Whiting over Plantain Squares served by Bambou, City Bakery’s Shrimp & Grits, Warm Pemequid Oysters and Lump Crab Meat from City Crab & Seafood, neat Yellowtail Seviche from Morells, and Savory Tuna Tartlet Provencale out of SushiSamba 7. Meat fanciers headed for Café Deville’s Hanger Steak Wrap Bordelaise with Mashed Potatoes, Dukes St. Louis BBQ Ribs, Heartland Brewery’s Applewood-smoked Buffalo Sausage with Creole Slew, Spicy Pork Shoulders on Coconut Flatbread by Sage. Desert cravers also liked the Sour Cherry Sundae from Olive’s, and the Pumpkin Cheesecake from Union Square Café, a personal favorite. In beverages, Dallis Coffee had Puerto Rican Clou de Mont Vintage, TSalon featured Rafia Tea and Sultan Tea., 71 Irving offered their personal house blend. Beers flowed - Heartland’s Smiling Pumpkin Ale, Old Fashioned Root Beer and Oktoberfest Lager, and the great brands from Labatt US, Stella Artois, Carlsberg, Bass and such. Union Square Wines & Spirits, as ever, offered a multitude of fine wines. Quel success!
Of the wines, best represented were chardonnays (5) and merlots (4). Australian shiraz is still the major import, and Californian /Mexican brands (tasted L.A. Cetto from Valle de Guadalupe) are playing catch-up taste-wise, with inexpensive Delicato the US leader. For the lovers of white who may fault the California chards as overly oaky, there were the Santa Clara (LI) and Smoking Loon (CA) viogniers, fruity and complex. Long Island and Finger Lakes showed good varietals. From the other side of the ocean, among Italian wines were a Feudi di San Grigorio, a nice white, and a Viticcio chianti; the white pinot grigios are still their main imports. A Remy Anjou rose, a German Richter Mulheimer riesling and a New Zealand sauvignon blanc fromVia Maria were noted. New Zealand wines are substantially different from the Australians, because the South Island is much cooler. Of the aperitifs, saw a tawny port and a Hakusan sake. The latter, an acquired taste, is low-cal (no sugar), also good with shellfish, chicken and spicy foods, I’m told.
Harvest in the Square was organized by the 14th Street-Union Square LDC & BID, with Karen H. Shaw, Executive Director, Christina M. Brown, Deputy Director, and Henry Choi, Director of Public Affairs in the lead. The LDC’s long-time Chairman Eugene R. McGrath, head of ConEd, proclaimed us the best-tasting community of New York. In a conversation he also conveyed greetings from his former counterpart, Jonathan Fanton, then of New School, now of McArthur Foundation in Chicago.
The event was chaired by the usual hard-working suspects, aka The Seeds of the Harvest, led by Danny Meyer, five of whose restaurants were present under the Big Top, Eric Petterson (two presences) and Joseph Fortunato. Restaurant chairs were Todd English and Victor LaPlaca of Olives, and wine chair was Gary Tornlund of the Premier/Pinnacle Wines and Spirits. The producer of the event was Martha Bear Dallis, of the eponymous firm. Eric, who was hands-on at the event until the end, estimated that there will be around $100,000 in proceeds. The funds will be used for the LDC’s local development initiatives. A capital campaign is being launched for the redesign of Union Square’s North End, to enhance the open spaces, the playgrounds, and the Greenmarket’s Farmers Market, our local pride.
If the Local Development Corporation/ Business Improvement District concept is new to you – these are coalitions of business, community and government movers and strivers, formed to chase out drug dealers and upgrade business conditions. The LDC incorporated in 1979, and the BID five years later, in a period when the 14th Street and Union Square area was rife with shuttered stores, abandoned buildings and rooming houses for druggies and prostitutes. The Greenmarket, inspired by Park Commisioner Adrian Benepe’s landscape architect father Barry, gave the neighborhood its first push towards recovery, and the LDC/BID further turned the neighborhood around by fostering new and rehab construction, suing slumlords, adding community-supported sanitation and security services and fostering restaurants and theatres. Now there are LDC/BIDs all throughout the city.



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