Thursday, September 27, 2007

 

Harvest in the Square – our County Fair

LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis


Blessed with the finest of weathers, the 12th Annual Union Square Harvest In The Square festival brought some 1200 paying guests to taste the best farm-fresh ingredients in the best imaginative dishes assembled the word’s finest chefs. Or so we’d like to think, with some justification, when we call this “Manhattan’s best-tasting community,” in the words of Eugene McGrath, Con Edison’s long-time CEO and 14th Street-Union Square BID’s chair. He is now retired, and the BID is now Union Square Partnership, committed to use the funds raised by such events as this to the beautification of the Park and making it a city Commons. Although good many people of the neighborhood mistrust the Partnership’s objectives, since they include expanding an upscale restaurant in the public Pavilion, nevertheless the Festival is a cheerful and well received event, a joy in these severe days.

The joys began at the entrance, with a festive round bar dispensing Mionetto Prosecco, white and rose, the nearest thing to champagne. A cheerful display of Robert Mondavi vines, with serving maidens pouring them, lead to a neat bar and grill with tables, good for resting between bouts with the crowds at the displays where 45 restaurants and their wine bar companions from some 15 wineries served free samples of their finest products to help raise the $300,000 this event was expected to net. If you were just promenading or chatting, cruising servitors would bring you varieties of hors d’oeuvres, rock shrimp cocktail shooters from Knickerbocker Bar, falafel balls from Maoz and mini-Brownies from Tisserie.

Serious sybarites would soon fill their paper plates and take them outside on the deck, to tables set next to the 17th Street traffic, and enjoy the food and the Barnes and Noble and AT&T skyline, while cabs and trucks pass, playing Manhattan music.

The more down-to-earth headed for mini-Mac Daddy burgers at Big Daddy’s and Kalbassa Reubens from Borough Food and Drink, Barbecue Spare Pork Ribs at Hill Country, prime bites at Primehouse. Havana Central’s Arroz con Pollo was accompanied by Savanna Sogno Due Falanghina white wine, served by a blonde European-accented dreamboat who called herself Savanna (detective work established that she was born in Rochester). Angelo and Maxie’s Steakhouse served delicate Filet Mignon sandwiches, with Macari Vineyards Merlot nearby. Tamarind offered Lamb Chettinad with Basmati Rice and Cumin Seeds, and Todd English’s Olives NY had Crispy Duck Schwarma with Pomegranate Yogurt over pita.

Seafood was plentiful, although Blue Water Grill’s Hamachi Crudo came in wonton soup spoons, and this gourmet had to ask for seconds to establish the taste (not bad!). City Crab’s Maryland Lump Crab Cakes and Dos Caminos Gulf Red Snapper were popular, while Whole Foods Market, with Ginger Plum-glazed Salmon Skewers and Stir-Fried Bok Choy came roaring in like a champion, right in line with the top restaurants. The Coffee Shop teased us with Traditional Moquesqua Stew in Mini Gourds, while Sushi Samba offered a well-liked King Crab with Heirloom Tomato Seviche.

In the vegetable department, Union Square Café offered the patriotic Greenmarket Vegetable Caponata Bruschetta with Coach Farm Goat Cheeses, no mistaking the state where these goodies originate. Pure Food and Wine put Marinated Oyster Mushrooms and Aged Cashew Cheese on a Pepper pecan cracker, Rosa Mexicana served Guacamole en Malacajette, Bar Stuzzichini featured Involtini, and the reliable Galaxy Global Eatery gave us Roasted Beet, Radish and Chive Relish over Hempnut Focaccia. In the pasta department, Republic boxed their Noodle Salad for the take-home crowd (I took it, along with two bottles of Fiji Water, which everyone was drinking, exhibitors and visitors.)

In deserts, City Bakery was a major player, with Bear-Claw tarts and Apple-Miso Muffins. Max Brenner had everyone squirting chocolate syrup in their mouths, using giant pastry syringes, a novelty, while Strip House offered more conventional Chocolate Mini- Cakes. Drinkers had their pleasure at the crowded Brooklyn Brewery. Tavalon Tea Bar, Dallis Coffee and Heartland Brewery, picking up some take-home bags of coffee at the Irving Farm.

In wine country, Union Square Wines and Spirits offered a dozen tastes. Long Island, Finger Lakes and upstate wineries were present, with Peconic Bay, Raphael, Lenz, Wolffer and Shinn Estates and the venerable Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera pouring winners.

The event was chaired by Jo-Ann Makovitzky and Marco Moreira of Tocqueville and 15 East restaurants and Gary Tornberg of Southern Wines and Spirits of New York. Honorary co-chairs were founders Danny Meyer of Union Square Hospitality Group and Eric Peterson of Gotham City Restaurant Group. The sponsorship of the festival was grouped in six categories, with the Union Square Partnership (Jennifer Falk, Director), NYC Department of Parks and Recreation (Adrian Benepe, Commissioner), Con Edison and the Union Square Greenmarket as the Presenting Sponsors. The newsprint program and restaurant map was produced by the free daily, Metro, and the event was covered by NYC TV’s “Eat Out New York” and WQXR FM, media sponsors. The excellent country-based music was provided by the Nashville Attitude, a group that made one wish for New Orleans and for walking the line with Johnny Cash.

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