Tuesday, September 30, 2008

 

Harvest in the Square 2008

LOOKING AHEAD by Wally Dobelis


The Union Square Partnership’s 13th annual event celebrating the Fall bounty took place on Thursday, September 18, with full cooperation of Ike and other powerful storms, who decided to stay away, leaving the tent city on Union Square and its elaborate walkways, domes and plazas alone. Its tent world was more complex this year, extending along the entire Union Square west half, since the customary North Plaza is under repair, but it succeeded, with collaboration of Parks Department, the Union Square Greenmarket, the 40 restaurant exhibitors and their partner wine purveyors, and the visitors.

The bounty of the season, much of it from the Greenmarket, and served by the best chefs of what is often called New York’s best-tasting neighborhood was enthusiastically received, as proven by our annual informal survey. No particular theme emerged, unless it was the joy and laughter that prevailed. Barbecue was the major product, and there was no enthusiastic speech-making, understandable in this critical economic environment. But we continue to be resilient, as we have been, throughout our history.

Surprisingly, the highest ratings in our survey were given to deserts, starting with Union Square Café’s Robiola Panna Cotta with fruit, Stand’s marshmallow shake and City Bakery’s apple lemon tart (they also had great assorted canapés), as well as Whole Foods’ harvest fruit tarts.

The offerings by our local hosts are reviewed by major specialties, in approximate survey rating order.

Starting with the reception, the wine portion was hosted by Robert Mondavi, with a large display at the entrance, Private Selection Fume Blancand Pinot Noir favored. Mionetto had a nice small-bubble Prosecco, and Black Duck’s lobster canapés and crabcakes, and Knickerbocker Bar and Grill’s t-bone steak bits and shrimp skewers had custimers following the servers around,

At the tables, both in the soup and vegetable departments, Rose Mexicana had fine guacamole en Molcajete, Pure Food and Wine offered pumpkin-seed tart with spring onion cashew cheese, Dos Caminos served mini-pumpkins with red chipotle creme pepitas. National Arts Club had chili and Tocqueville’s put forth a chilled borscht with smoked blue fin pate. Devi’s cabbage and white bean dumplings were tops, galaxy Global Eatery had chickpea pancakes, and in the pasta department the noodle salad from Republic triumphed.

Meat specialties had the most entries, and Angelo & Maxie’s Steakhouse triumphed again, with filet mignon sandwiches and sautéed onions, followed by Primehouse’s seared hang steak with blue cheese fondue. Barbecue lovers found Hill Country’s pork spare riblets, Blue Smoke’s baby back ribs, and those from Duke’s, as well as Wildwood BBQ’s and Beppe’s and Robert Mondavi’s pulled pork sliders. Havana Central had chicken and rice with red beans, Gramercy Tavern featured smoked kielbasa, Todd English’s Olives offered Long Island duck confit latkes, Café Spice grilled some Do-Rukha kebab, Tamarind served chicken Kolah Puri, City Bakery had bacon sandwiches.

In the seafood division, newcomer Bar Stuzzichini had winning polpo (octopus) and potato salad, newcomer Lunetta had fluke Crudo, BlueWater Grill served Farmers’ Market Martini “Caprese” skewers?????????????? City Crab & Seafood offered well-liked Maryland crab cakes with Greenmarket salad. There was ceviche from Café Society and Lucy, wild striped bass tartare from Fleur de Sel, Gamberi al Gorgonzola (shrimp) from Aleo, Kobe Tataki with warm Shimeyi mushrooms from SushiSamba, bacalaitos with orange Aioli??? from The Coffee Shop.

As fot beverages, the event was awash with Fiji water, from the middle of Pacific Ocean. Dallis Coffee offered light and dark roastsGuS Grown-Up Soda served new fruity flavors, and Heartland Brewery earned honors with its pumpkin ale and Oktoberfest lager..

In wineries, Long Island predominated, with Bedell Cellars and Corey Creek serving theit First Crush reds, whites and varietals, Wolffer Estate and Shinn Estate offering chardonnays, cabernet franc and merlot, competing with Dr. Constantin Frank’s dry rieslings, and a newcomer, Matchbox from Dunigan Hills, Chile, featuring Tinto Rey, a blend of varietals, mostly spicy tempranillo.
Veteran local distributors and retailers, Union Square Wines and Spirits, Southern Wines and Spirits of NY and New York Wines and Dines had selections from their spcious cellars, with Robert Mondavi earning kudos with its spectacular wine and food splashes.

In the crush, this observer had barely any time to touch base with old friends, Jane Crotty, once a participant in the most contested City Council election, with???then a Baruch College vice president and now a lobbyist for education (regards to Paul Crotty, now on federal bench), Commissioner Rob Walsh, ages ago the chief of the former 14th Street-Union Square BID/ LDC, now running theNYC Department of Small Business Services. Briefly saw Jennifer Falk, Executive Director of the BID’s successor Union Square Partnership, organizer of the annual Harvest event, held to raise funds for the beautification of Union Square Park, usuallyresulting in about in a $100,000 plus contribution. Since this involves the privatization of parks issues, specifically the proposed restaurant in the Pavillion building, there were also preservationist leafleters outside, gently protesting the event, with street performer Reverend Billy mock-auctioning the park. It is that kind of year.

The presenting sponsors of the harvest were the US Partnership,NYC Department of parks and Recreation, Con Edison, and Council of Environment of NYC, with local businesses contributiong in several sponsorship categories, including two universities, three hospitals, a dozen real estate companies, law firms restaurant corporations and individual restaurants. Chairs of the Harvest were Danny Meyers of Union Square Hospitality Group and Eric Peterson of Gotham City Reastaurant Group, both Honorary Co-Chairs and Founders, and Suvir Savan of Devi as the 2008 Restaurant Chair and Garry Tornberg of Southern Wines and Spirits as the 2008 Wine Chair.

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